Brown, not grey

Browning needs a dry surface, a hot pan and space. Missing any one gives you grey, steamed food.

Why brown matters

The brown crust on seared chicken or tofu adds a lot of flavor. It forms when the surface gets hot enough, which can’t happen while water is still evaporating off it.

The three conditions

• Dry surface. Pat dry. Wet food steams until the water is gone.
• Hot pan. Medium-high. The food should sizzle loudly the moment it goes in. A quiet pan means it’s too cold.
• Space. Leave a finger’s width between pieces. A crowded pan traps steam. If it doesn’t fit, cook in two rounds.

Listen

A steady, loud sizzle means browning. Sputtering and hissing that fades to a simmer means water is pooling: the pan is crowded or the food was wet.